giovedì 29 agosto 2013

THE TIMING IN PERFUMERY: BUILDING, AGING, FILTERING

Build
How long it takes to make a perfume? is the question that often comes to me where I reveal that I deal with perfumery. The question may be rid of with a vague "it depends", leaving open to solutions that can be linked to raw materials, to the inspiration of the moment or to the olfactory form you want to achieve.." Yes, but...how long..." resonates the question again... “for the time it takes to be satisfied” I answer...and that answer then opens horizons that can allow us to imagine more concrete times, weeks, months or years ..
moreover, satisfaction in all manual activities or craft is an element that, to use a mathematical term, tends to infinity...when you are happy with the result then you try to do it better. But in a world that accelerates , lives and shares all in real time, the time-consuming activities, meditation, care and satisfaction seem to give-up....

how long to build? for the time required ...

Aging
the concept of aging in perfumery follows the same patterns that nature shows us in its evolution and in many activities related to the processing of food and beverages. It is a process that is more akin to alchemy, where the transformation of the matter takes place in silence, in the dark, cold, and the changes are detected by a periodic olfactory control: is the smell become more round?, it is kinder or more aggressive?....the leading role of these transformations at the microscopic level,are chemical molecules that are in the conditions to meet each other, and maybe to join and to decouple. Chemical reactions that proceed silent, seemingly harmless twistings that lead to the final result that the designer of the mixture had set... expected..

how long to age? for the time required ..


Filter
The scented matured juice often presents the molecular residues of the aging battle just ended; if resin and waxy materials used, these residues are also very bulky. So then proceeds with the filtration...the pores of the paper filter tend to close quickly in the presence of coarse material and make the time of the filtration slow, dropwise, relentless dripping of scented drops in the bottle that receives the purified juice, clear...
I get the impression that after filtration the matter is further refined, in the real sense of the word .. the smell is refined ..

how long to filter? for the time required ...

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