martedì 24 settembre 2013


Pitti Fragranze arrives at the 11th edition and as usual it is an essential showcase to hear the news, to understand where the market evolves and last but not least, meet industry professionals and friends with whom I share a passion and also the profession.
Here i report what hop in my " the nose " , what struck me and caught my attention.

Ambery notes everywhere
What is almost standard in fragrances from some time to now and also confirmed in this edition of Fragranze are the ambery notes , those dry and sharp ones on the type of cedramber , bornafix , ambrocenide . Practically everywhere, already on the second day of exibition, their smell was well present, hovered everywhere and it wrapped up as soon as you entered in the space in front of the stands. Some say that convey sensuality miming the human odors , who says that they give complexity to the formula and those who simply says they are fine and that enhance on the skin. 

my nose has some difficulty with these notes, suffering them, detecting them immediately and amplifying them even at low percentage ... I note , however, that they like a lot, and especially like to women: I made several comparisons with different people with different scents and when I highlighted the characteristic note , always I got smiles and approval : that is, 99% test positive..

.."This Sells, this Smash!!..
Interesting account of economic nature that I have observed on several debates...smelling the fragrance, return the mouillette several times to the nose , and then, painting a smile and nodding the head, a personal consideration was issued: "this sells , for sure!!"
Now i think that the " like - not like" based on pure feeling of what the fragrance transmits is leaving to a more direct dialogue, that immediately goes on the describing of what's inside the fragrance, the fashion molecules, its reference outlet market and the likelihood of " smashing " on the market.
someone said....time changes ...

Emotional memories through the sense of smell 

Between the different events scheduled at Pitti Fragranze, I found very interesting this presentation of the work that is being carried out Ambroise Pare Hospital in Paris in collaboration with the IFF where they use raw materials and fragrant accords to stimulate the rehabilitation of memory and the recovery of cognition and communication by smell. The use of olfactory stimuli helps to retrieve information crammed into the innermost parts of the brain in patients with Alzheimer, or with traumatic brain injury or even stimulate a new perspective for food in anorexics or bulimics persons.
To the patients are "administered "olfactory kits expecially developed by IFF that contain a series of stimulations,as the smell of the flowers, the smells of cooking, homemade cakes or the smell of the environment in which they lived.
An outstanding example of how the power of odors can alleviate some of the sufferings and the confirmation that the sense of smell , between the 5 senses , plays an important role in the growth of our personalities.

..To meet up during the days of Pitti Fragranze.. 
If you do not take a clear appointment (time and place) with the people inside the exhibition space of the Leopolda Station during Pitti Fragranze, the risk is to not meet anyone: the generic " oh come on, I'll see you inside, we will get together for sure, don’t you think so?" regularly leads to the opposite result. Once you cross the doorway at 10 am, the time seems to fly , speed up and you find yourself at 6 pm that you did not even notice, and you wonder : but I should not see me with somebody? in short, the Stazione Leopolda becomes a kind of time capsule space that makes us become transparent, but not to our liking ..

Final considerations
Florence has charm and clearly conveys it in this fragarnt chermesse that punctually every year attracts the elite of European Perfumery , with looks at West and a few more to the East which is the new territory of invasion (we'll see if as conquerors or conquered) of the Perfumery and European perfumers . These new markets are quite different in terms of taste of perfumes from European ones, but a lot is on to sneak into the sensory folds of the new rich, Russians at North and Arabs and Asians in the south. there are a lot of new initiatives to support the export of European perfumery to those latitudes (as recounted in the appropriate event entitled "Evolution of the fragrance industry in the Middle East " moderator Chandler Burr) and oriental notes intertwined by the ubiquitous Oudh mark the road waiting that the olfactory curiosity manages to slot into the nostrils of these markets.

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