lunedì 7 ottobre 2013

LOOKING INSIDE JASMINE


I'm playing with different raw materials, natural and synthetic , reviewing them and trying to build customized bases to employ then in my composition work.
Between the various games that I like to do with my molecules, building smells similar to natural smells give me a lot of satisfaction.
Jasmine is, since I started my journey into the world of odors ,my beloved ,my cuddle , my joy. I cultivate 5 different species and each blossoming of a flower is a beautiful gift that is given to me.


Looking into Jasmine, recognizing the molecules leading to the smell of the flower, within the help of olfactory and analytical references.
The molecules in both the varieties of jasmine used in pefumery, sambac and grandiflorum are:



These molecules constitute 80% of the overall odor of the flower, where the remaining 15% is made up of a series of minor components that are under the 2% concentration.

Rebuilding a base starting from molecules is an interesting exercise because it is possible to understand some of the features that the raw material has and how to use then this information in the construction of a perfume.
Once understood the olfactory game of how molecules work within the mixture, it is then possible to develop olfactory illusions with a smaller number of components while retaining the principal effect.

JCEllena as an appendix to his book "Journal d’un parfumeur"  shows some wonderful examples.

This exercise highlights the molecular levers that can be used to reinforce some peculiar aspects of a fragrance that you want to build or a raw material you wish to enhance or modify, giving it certain characteristics or special nuances.
So if I want a more aggressive jasmine, I can reinforce it with a touch of benzyl acetate, or for a more gentle and fresh jasmine use a little more of linalool...the combinations become many and then using one or another depends on the creativity or inspiration of the moment: balance the background of a natural material with a brushwork of synthetics or soften a synthetic reconstruction with a touch of naturals.
It is a beautiful sensory play: separate to put back to understand and master the material, shape it according to my own tastes, my own inspiration or character.



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